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      當前位置:主頁 > 散文 > 經典散文 >

      辣椒

      發布時間:2018-08-11 13:45 | 作者:王建福 | 來源:未知 | 瀏覽: 次|類別:經典散文

        自幼家貧,母親做菜多給辣椒,曰:好下飯。讀小學時,每天上學必經“蔡林記”熱干面館,那里每一張桌子上都有一碗純正的辣子,可以隨意添加,一碗熱干面,兩瓢紅辣油,是我經常的功課。家庭的培養,社會的熏陶,令我酷愛辣椒。中國愛辣有幾省比較著名,四川愛“麻辣”,湖南愛“香辣”,江西愛“干辣”,云南貴州愛“酸辣”,湖北愛“瞎辣”!蓋湖北沒有自己的特色,又地處九省通衢,什么樣的辣味都有,什么樣的辣味都愛,所以就“瞎辣”。還有人將嗜辣人士分為三等,曰:辣不怕;不怕辣;怕不辣。我有幸被親友同事評為“怕不辣”。在“瞎辣”之省榮膺“怕不辣”級別,我之愛辣,應該是比較厲害的了。
        辣椒好哇;一是開胃。西方有開胃酒,辣椒乃開胃菜。胃口不佳者,先來一口辣椒,保證胃口大開;二是驅寒。寒冷的冬天,來一碗熱呼呼的酸辣湯,周身暖和;三是營養豐富。辣椒富含維C,是公認的維C庫;四是重要調料。沒有辣椒,就沒有了川菜和湘菜,八大菜系至少少了兩個!最后一個好處:它是我等嗜辣癮君子的精神寄托。沒有辣椒,怎么吃得進飯?!有了辣椒,還要別的菜干嗎?!
        辣椒的種類有多少,我懷疑沒有人能夠說清楚。就我這樣一個孤陋寡聞的人,都可以扳起指頭隨便報個十幾種來。我不想當植物學家,也不想把這個事情搞清楚。只是每到一地,我總是習慣性地去搜尋有什么辣椒好吃。只要看見滿碗紅油,管它是粉面還是湯菜,都一定要弄來吃他一頓,只痛恨自己無能,搜不盡天下好吃的辣椒。
        我很留戀十幾年前滿街有賣的本地青椒,又香又辣。無論是用來炒肉絲、榨菜絲還是干子絲或者是三絲四絲一起炒,都下飯。用一點黃豆醬,就可以燒出誘人口水的虎皮辣椒來。甚至,我年輕時曾經將它直接用火一烤,蘸點醬油,就飽餐米飯兩大菜碗!尤其是到了深秋,辣椒即將過季時(我們叫下橋)結出的秋椒,香辣最濃。用來燒五花肉,叫人放不下筷子。可惜,現在很難看到這種本地辣椒了。現在辣椒都改良了,大棚高產,吃起來一口青氣,根本沒有辣味,怎么做都不好吃,不如吃白菜(我佩服它怎么也敢叫辣椒!)。正如現在滿街娘娘腔已經少有男人一樣,現在也很難找到有陽剛之氣的青椒了。世風愈下,世風愈下呀!
        我的觀點,辣椒好不好,就是一個標準:辣不辣。不辣,憑什么叫辣椒?!所以我的目標總是搜尋辣的辣椒。幾年前公司組織到桂林旅游。在陽朔看完西街夜景,回到賓館對面的大排擋消夜,老遠就看到保安部的一幫兄弟望著我笑。問他們笑從何來?他們指著桌上一小碟辣椒說:“我們發現只有你能吃的辣椒。”我夾了一筷子送進嘴里,極辣,很過癮!找老板打聽,老板拿來原料,原來該辣椒長不過寸許,粗不過筷子,紅果綠把兒,鮮艷可愛。老板說:“這是越南米椒。本地菜市場有賣。”第二天回桂林,就居然在菜場買到兩斤。回來剁了腌了用香油泡了兩大瓶,吃了足有半年。后來聽說有同事在桂林古東風景區看到餐館腌米椒,空腹嘗了一口,居然休克!該同事姓霍名秀嶺,有據可查。
        去年,我到昆明出差,發現了更辣的辣椒。那天我們在一家山西飯館吃餃子,我看到老板的餐桌上有一碟醋泡的米椒,便向老板討來過癮。老板先是很大方,但是看到我的架勢,又把碟子捂住了:“最多兩三個就夠了!”我笑老板小氣,老板瞪著眼睛對我說:“我是怕把你辣壞了!”果然,我的同事只是咬了一點,馬上就吐了出來。我吃了三個,就感覺確實再不能吃了。向老板請教這種越南米椒為什么這樣辣?老板說:“這哪是越南米椒?這是正宗的版納米椒。”哈哈,看來還是中國比越南厲害,連米椒都要壓他一籌。晚上,咽喉水腫,疼得我一夜未眠。這是我吃過的最辣的辣椒!
        關于辣椒,我還有兩個心愿未了。一是想見識一下南美的“地獄之火”,聽說這種辣椒吃過量后,會渾身起火將人燒死(這個牛皮吹大了一點,我不太相信,所以想見識見識);二是想找到王力(或者是汪曾祺?)老先生描述過的、中國西南的一種“涮椒”。據說,這種辣椒是用一根線吊在鍋臺上的。某個菜需要辣味,只需把辣椒放在菜里涮一下。涮一下就有辣味,直接吃,一定非常過癮!

      下一篇:沒有了 上一篇:雨瀉繁花,風一般吹落滿地

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